Now that Golden Week has come to an end I can only come to one conclusion: Japan must be one of the most beautiful and impressive countries I have ever travelled in. In just one week I have seen everything from snow-capped mountains and forests with Macaque monkeys to surf beaches and picturesque wooden houses and bridges. I have several hundreds of photographs to organize and will probably write a lengthy travel story in time, but here I will focus on the highlights of our trip.
Together with 3 other JPP students I spent the first leg of our Golden Week vacation in Takayama. This village in the Japanese Alps was praised by my colleagues as a connoisseur’s choice. They were right- it was great. We slept in a former temple turned into a youth hostel, but still with its characteristic features intact. There’s nothing like the feeling of bare feet on clean tatami mats after a long day of walking! The town itself was equally picturesque. With its wooden houses, narrow streets, traditional restaurants, morning market and countless rickshaws Takayama seemed almost untouched by modern times. Even more so was the secluded mountain town of Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its Gasshozukuri style houses. Walking around the green village in the blazing hot sun it was difficult to imagine that from November to April, this town is covered in several metres of snow, making it as isolated as Yasunari Kawabata’s Snow Country.
We did manage to see some snow during our trip when we went hiking at Kamikochi. This area is famous for its natural beauty- and rightly so. With the snowy mountains in the background, our hike past the river was amazing. Large chunks of snow lined the road, Macaque monkeys were foraging in the woods and the walk through the Takazawa marsh (walking on elevated wooden walkways) was very atmospheric. All in all, this was yet another great hiking experience in Japan- unbelievable how such a densely populated country can have so many areas of exceptional natural beauty. And the greatest thing about enjoying nature in Japan is that you can soak in an onsen afterwards, even if the water is so sulphuric you have to wash your hair twice to make sure it doesn’t smell afterwards.
The second part of our holiday was spent on laid-back Izu-Hanto, as we wanted to include some relaxation in our holiday as well. At the coastal village of Shimoda we relaxed on the beach and explored the exciting nightlife of the town (aka the Cheshire Cat Jazz Club, which was very cosy albeit a bit quiet). As this was also the landing place of the famous Black Ships, we decided to go and visit the Shimoda Historical Museum as well, which featured a large exhibition on Perry and Harris, especially on the latter’s maid Saito Kichi, whose tragic life story has been the subject of many books and plays. The exhibition also included a fairly large section on Harris’ Dutch interpreter Henry Heusken, who was assassinated a few years after their arrival in Japan. It was interesting to see how the Americans used several interpreters working in Dutch as well as Chinese to communicate with the Japanese.
The last stops on our journey, Matsuzaki, Dogashima and Shuzenji, are less historically important but were still nice. Highlights included joining the locals to pick flowers in the fields surrounding our gorgeous wafu youth hostel in Matsuzaki, taking a boat tour round the cliffs at Dogashima where I saw my first flying fish ever, soaking in a tiny cliff-top onsen with an amazing view, taking a stroll through the very picturesque village of Shuzenji and drinking matcha in the sunny garden of a small teahouse in the hills overlooking the town. I must say, the traditional red bridges and bamboo grove at Shuzenji were exactly what I imagined Japan to look like when I was a kid.
All in all this holiday was just what I needed and it has inspired me to plan more trips for our last months in Japan. I can’t wait to go out and travel through this country again.
Posts tonen met het label Golden. Alle posts tonen
Posts tonen met het label Golden. Alle posts tonen
vrijdag 9 mei 2008
XV. Future
The last days before Golden Week were not easy, as I was trying to keep focused at work but my mind was wandering elsewhere. Outside, the sun was shining. At home, travel guides and bag pack were ready to go. At work, Golden Week was The Lunchtime Topic. It struck me that whilst most managers had to go on business trip during Golden Week and had only a few days off, many Office Ladies were using Hitachi’s long Golden Week to go on trips to far and exotic destinations, ranging from Italy to Trinidad. I guess the combination of having fewer responsibilities than their male co-workers and being able to save up more money living with their parents enables many young Office Ladies to make trips many salarymen can only dream of. It made me wonder: should Japanese career women really aspire to careers similar to those of their male colleagues? Or had Japanese salarymen better follow the example of their female counterparts and invest more in free time and having fun? I wonder if emancipated Japanese women will want to adopt a salaryman lifestyle or if they will be able to change Japanese corporate lifestyle as they rise in the company’s ranks.
All this Golden Week talk made me eager to get out and travel. Luckily the working week ended early as I got Friday afternoon off to go to the Dutch embassy’s Queen’s Day reception. Although I am not too fond of expat culture in general, it was quite nice to chat to other Dutch people and find out how they are experiencing life in Tokyo. The Dutch cheese was also wonderful, although I did miss the dropjes.
The first days of Golden Week I spent relaxing, catching up on sleep, e-mails and enjoying the gorgeous weather. I discovered Hamarikyu Teien which is now officially one of my absolute favourite parks in Tokyo, and sipped matcha in the tea pavilion in the middle of the park’s salt water pond. I also explored Odaiba, which sometimes feels like a city from the future. There are dancing robots at the Toyota Universal Design Showcase, there are the Fuji Building and Tokyo Big Sight which seem like spacecrafts carelessly left behind by aliens, there is even a Tokyo Teleport Station. It doesn’t get much more SciFi than that. I read somewhere that Tokyo is the place the rest of the world goes to in order to see what the future looks like- looking back at the island’s futuristic skyline from the deck of the water bus, I myself felt a bit like a tourist back from the future. It was a strange sensation, yet at the same time “just another day in Tokyo.” Be it a miniature Statue of Liberty, a trumpet playing robot or an indoors recreation of Venice: if you can’t find it in Tokyo, it probably doesn’t exist- or you’ll have to wait at least another decade before it does.
All this Golden Week talk made me eager to get out and travel. Luckily the working week ended early as I got Friday afternoon off to go to the Dutch embassy’s Queen’s Day reception. Although I am not too fond of expat culture in general, it was quite nice to chat to other Dutch people and find out how they are experiencing life in Tokyo. The Dutch cheese was also wonderful, although I did miss the dropjes.
The first days of Golden Week I spent relaxing, catching up on sleep, e-mails and enjoying the gorgeous weather. I discovered Hamarikyu Teien which is now officially one of my absolute favourite parks in Tokyo, and sipped matcha in the tea pavilion in the middle of the park’s salt water pond. I also explored Odaiba, which sometimes feels like a city from the future. There are dancing robots at the Toyota Universal Design Showcase, there are the Fuji Building and Tokyo Big Sight which seem like spacecrafts carelessly left behind by aliens, there is even a Tokyo Teleport Station. It doesn’t get much more SciFi than that. I read somewhere that Tokyo is the place the rest of the world goes to in order to see what the future looks like- looking back at the island’s futuristic skyline from the deck of the water bus, I myself felt a bit like a tourist back from the future. It was a strange sensation, yet at the same time “just another day in Tokyo.” Be it a miniature Statue of Liberty, a trumpet playing robot or an indoors recreation of Venice: if you can’t find it in Tokyo, it probably doesn’t exist- or you’ll have to wait at least another decade before it does.
vrijdag 25 april 2008
XIV. Yarikata
Suddenly I find myself halfway through my stay in Japan, which is a very strange feeling. I have already experienced so many new things that January feels ages ago, yet I can't believe how fast the days fly by. I try not to think too much about leaving Japan and focus on Golden Week instead. Having worked with Hitachi for 2 months, I feel in need of a holiday, even though I only work 4 days a week and my overtime hours are limited. I must say I have gained a new respect for the salarymen and office ladies of Japan. Granted, the image of the overworked, underpaid and sleep-deprived salaryman is a cliché, but when I observe my colleagues I do think the company makes up a much bigger part of their life than is the case in the Netherlands. For example, when his wife delivered their first child, my colleague only had the weekend off and returned to his desk on Monday, his wife still in the hospital. He had been on a business trip a week before his wife was due. My female colleagues are, naturally, at the bottom of the unit’s hierarchy. Usually they stay longest, often clocking up to 3 hours overtime. Managers, too, stay longer than they have to. Often, their business trips fall in weekends or on holidays, in order to limit the impact on normal business proceedings.
But does all this devotion make the Japanese more productive or better at what they do? Working at a division that is largely involved in information gathering and dissemination, as well as generating a good deal of information in English, I must say the answer is no. Over the years, Hitachi has developed a rather peculiar form of English. In an earlier report, I already mentioned the infamous Hitachi-go: a mixture of business Japanese, technical terms, jargon and a couple of "invented words," that even employees of similar Japanese companies don’t understand. The term "monozukuri" is an excellent example. It means something along the lines of manufacturing, although it can also include design or management of production processes. Japanese from outside the company generally do not know what it means. In fact, the word is so wholly untranslatable that it often appears in Hitachi's English-language texts as well.
This special Hitachi-speak leaves its mark on most English-language texts we produce. In Brussels I received intensive article-writing training, learning to write succinct and accessible articles, often about complex subjects. There are a few tricks of the trade, such as concise, enticing headlines, clear phrasing, and putting the essence of an article in the first few sentences whilst saving background information (that which would usually be put in the introduction of books and essays) at the end of the article. After all, most readers have little time and even shorter attention spans, and getting the correct information across is essential. Unfortunately, all my pieces for Hitachi's newsletter (including some really good headlines) were reviewed and largely rewritten by a Japanese colleague, rendering them as dry and factual (and, frankly, boring) as the articles from previous issues. This confrontation with the "yarikata" (way of doing things) of the company, which is essentially reducing the effectiveness of its own (information) products, was a little frustrating.
At the core of the problem is, I think, the reliance on the company's yarikata. Once a certain practice has been established, it is virtually impossible to change it. And even if you manage to make some changes, your work has to go through such a long chain of people that by the time it comes back to you it’s hardly recognizable. The same thing often goes for top-down instructions. There is a popular children’s game where someone whispers a sentence into his neighbour's ear, who in turn whispers it into the next person's ear, who whispers it into someone else's ear, and so forth, until the last person in the group is reached and he then repeats the sentence out loud. Laughter is the result: the original meaning of the sentence is completely lost. This whispering hierarchy, with instructions trickling down from bucho to kacho to sempai, can form a communication problem even larger than the language, and sometimes results in superfluous work.
Yet, despite these more trying aspects of working in a Japanese work environment, it is still a great experience- not because of the system, but because of the people who are all very friendly and at the same time quite committed to the work we do. Even though I want to work to live, instead of living to work as some Japanese are doing, I do think the devotion of Japanese to their company can be fascinating to watch. If a little impractical at times.
But does all this devotion make the Japanese more productive or better at what they do? Working at a division that is largely involved in information gathering and dissemination, as well as generating a good deal of information in English, I must say the answer is no. Over the years, Hitachi has developed a rather peculiar form of English. In an earlier report, I already mentioned the infamous Hitachi-go: a mixture of business Japanese, technical terms, jargon and a couple of "invented words," that even employees of similar Japanese companies don’t understand. The term "monozukuri" is an excellent example. It means something along the lines of manufacturing, although it can also include design or management of production processes. Japanese from outside the company generally do not know what it means. In fact, the word is so wholly untranslatable that it often appears in Hitachi's English-language texts as well.
This special Hitachi-speak leaves its mark on most English-language texts we produce. In Brussels I received intensive article-writing training, learning to write succinct and accessible articles, often about complex subjects. There are a few tricks of the trade, such as concise, enticing headlines, clear phrasing, and putting the essence of an article in the first few sentences whilst saving background information (that which would usually be put in the introduction of books and essays) at the end of the article. After all, most readers have little time and even shorter attention spans, and getting the correct information across is essential. Unfortunately, all my pieces for Hitachi's newsletter (including some really good headlines) were reviewed and largely rewritten by a Japanese colleague, rendering them as dry and factual (and, frankly, boring) as the articles from previous issues. This confrontation with the "yarikata" (way of doing things) of the company, which is essentially reducing the effectiveness of its own (information) products, was a little frustrating.
At the core of the problem is, I think, the reliance on the company's yarikata. Once a certain practice has been established, it is virtually impossible to change it. And even if you manage to make some changes, your work has to go through such a long chain of people that by the time it comes back to you it’s hardly recognizable. The same thing often goes for top-down instructions. There is a popular children’s game where someone whispers a sentence into his neighbour's ear, who in turn whispers it into the next person's ear, who whispers it into someone else's ear, and so forth, until the last person in the group is reached and he then repeats the sentence out loud. Laughter is the result: the original meaning of the sentence is completely lost. This whispering hierarchy, with instructions trickling down from bucho to kacho to sempai, can form a communication problem even larger than the language, and sometimes results in superfluous work.
Yet, despite these more trying aspects of working in a Japanese work environment, it is still a great experience- not because of the system, but because of the people who are all very friendly and at the same time quite committed to the work we do. Even though I want to work to live, instead of living to work as some Japanese are doing, I do think the devotion of Japanese to their company can be fascinating to watch. If a little impractical at times.
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