XIII. Local

Even though life in Tokyo is never dull, there can be weeks that are relatively quiet, with nothing much going on. Not so this week. Last Friday one of my bucho’s invited me along to a meeting at UN University. Together with a group of Hitachi employees working in the field of CSR, Supply Chain Management and Human Rights, we had a meeting with prof. Yokota, an expert on UN/CSR-related issues. The entire meeting was of course in Japanese, and the details were often lost on me, but I still managed to get the gist of it. It goes to show that collecting and learning job-related words really improves the kenshuu-experience. I had prepared some questions and was able to ask one, which made a good impression on my colleagues. It was nice to get out of the office for a change (working at Hitachi is fun, but very sedentary) and I got some new ideas for my CSR-research.

On Saturday Margreet and I wanted to escape the city for a day, so we made the two-hour trip to the supposedly sacred island of Enoshima. To get there, you need to take the Enoden line, which runs over tracks so narrow you can almost reach out of the window and touch the houses and garden walls. The weather was pretty good, and although we had intended to lounge on the beach all day, we decided to have a look at some temples instead. Of course we ended up walking all around the small island, working our way through throngs of weekenders shopping for kitsch souvenirs, visiting pleasant but mildly bland temples and walking around on the rocky coast, where young families had pick nicks and children tried to catch tiny sea crabs. Apart from an older woman chanting in an atmospheric, dimly-lit temple, and the bicycle locks with hearts and dates that were chained to fences everywhere, the island wasn’t particularly noteworthy, although I’ve never before seen a beach with signs warning people to watch out for hawks.

It was a good idea to go to the beach on Saturday, as the weather on Sunday was bad: cold and wet. It was perfect museum weather though, so I seized the opportunity to finally visit the Edo-Tokyo museum in Ryogoku. Although the outside of the building is more overwhelming than the inside, it’s still a nice museum. I liked the scale-models of Edo Ryogoku and Meiji Ginza best; they are so detailed. The temporary exhibition of Japanese fashion designer Kansai Yamamoto’s work, especially the costumes he made for David Bowie, were a highlight of my visit. I am also looking forward to the next temporary exhibition, which will be about Matthew Perry, Townsend Harris and the beginning of American-Japanese relations. I will definitely go back to view it and bring my camera with me- the museum allows its visitors to make photographs inside!

As the weekend is never long enough, I’m very happy to have Wednesday afternoons off to experience living in Tokyo too, rather than just working there. Yesterday I ended up exploring Yanaka, an area close to Ueno Park with a very cosy and old-fashioned atmosphere. As the area was mentioned in several Tokyo guides, I had wanted to go there for some time. Walking past traditional shops at Yanaka Ginza, it was difficult to imagine Marunouchi’s skyscrapers were only 15 minutes away by train. The area reminded me of Kyoto, with shrines and old shops and warehouses on every street corner. Walking through Yanaka cemetery, I saw a couple of old men trying out Japanese traditional flutes they had made by hand. They were playing from sheet music, but the notation was very different from what I am used to, using numbers rather than notes to indicate pitch. I talked to them for a while and they explained to me how the flutes are made and showed me how to read their sheet music. It is chance encounters like this that make me realize how great it is to have learned the language before coming here. Even though our grasp of the language is still relatively basic, being able to chat to the locals really adds to the experience of living and working here in Japan.

VI. Kansai

Checking out of the Asia Kaikan at 5.45 in the morning, I had a feeling that our trip to the Kansai region was going to be more than just a relaxing outing. I was right; although the trip lasted only five days, we experienced so much it feels like we’ve been away longer. Maybe we’re turning Japanese a bit, cramming so much sightseeing in such a short period and taking way too many pictures. However, I believe we all had a great time and got a good impression of the Kansai-region. Also, this trip was a great way to get together as a group for one last time before we would be separated.

Our guide Watanabe-san, although quite small compared to us Dutch people, was very much in charge and guided us firmly but gently from the Shinkansen into the tour bus, and then to temple after temple, all the while telling us about Kyoto’s history, its people and its peculiarities. At first I tried speaking Japanese with her but as all of us found her English to be incredibly good, we gave in and just spoke English with her. Of the sights we visited on our first afternoon in Kyoto, I liked Ryoan-ji’s rock garden best, although it was lacking in serenity because of the tourist crowd. I also enjoyed visiting the Kinkaku-ji complex, although up close the golden pavillion was slightly kitsch. Perhaps I should read Mishima’s novel about it.

Luckily we did find some serenity and authenticity at our mountain retreat at Hiei-zan. The view from our room was just amazing: a steep slope, going down endlessly, covered with fir trees under a thick blanket of snow. Equally wonderful was the communal bath: big, hot, with a view of the mountain. At night, we had dinner together in our yukata, enjoying a Buddhist meal that, although some of it tasted strange, at least looked gorgeous. That night was my first night in a wa-shiki room, sleeping on a futon. It was surprisingly comfortable and I loved lounging around on the tatami. Getting up the next morning at a ridiculously early hour was hard at first, but after another hot bath, the early morning’s zazen meditation and a brisk walk outside through the snow, I felt like a different person. I was glad I’d brought my walking boots so I could actually explore the area and visit some of Hiei-zan’s temples, as the snow was very thick on the ground. Also, thanks to Watanabe-san, I discovered the genius that is the heat patch. What a terrific invention! You just stick one on your shirt, wait a couple of minutes, and voilà, you stay warm, even though you’re up to your ankles in snow.

We definitely needed those heat packs during the next days in Kyoto. Although it was warmer than up on the mountain, the wind was cold in the city. But this didn’t stop us from using our first free afternoon to walk around in Higashiyama and Gion, looking for geisha’s. We didn’t spot any, unfortunately, although we did keep bumping into other JPP students. To compensate, we decided that if we weren’t going to meet any geisha, we should perhaps dress up like one. Giggling in the photo studio at Toei Uzumasa Movie Village, first dismissing it as a tourist trap, none of us could resist temptation once we saw our fellow JPP-students dressing up as samurai and geisha. Having my “authentic” Japanese portrait taken was hilarious, especially since I had to twist and turn in strange ways until I stood in the correct pose for the picture. A nice way to loosen up the muscles for the mock-sword fighting lessons that followed. It was very amusing to learn some Samurai-flick moves and appropriate grunts, but I am not sure I can take out an attacker when necessary, especially since I usually don’t carry a wooden sword…

Although I loved the temples we visited at Arashiyama and thought the bamboo grove quite impressive, I was happy to leave Kyoto’s picture-perfect Japan for a day and enjoy the bustle of business-city Osaka on Tuesday. I took an immediate liking to it and although I’ve only seen a small part of the city, I definitely want to go back to explore it a little further. I had thought about returning to Osaka the next day but decided against it. Instead, I spent a day exploring Kyoto by bike, together with four other JPP students. It turned out to be a brilliant idea. The weather was mostly sunny, the bikes were sturdy and our route took us right through the city. We first cycled from the hotel to Toji temple, to view the largest pagoda in Japan. It was interesting, but our next stop, Fushimi-inari taisha was much more impressive. Our route took us through a beautiful neighbourhood with temples at every corner and spacious traditional houses in between. Fushimi-inari taisha itself, famous of course for its endless row of tori’s, was incredibly atmospheric. Walking under this red-wood canopy in the middle of the forest felt like walking through a National Geographic photo shoot: too gorgeous to be true. The same can be said of the sunset at Kyomizu-dera. We had timed our arrival at the end of the day and although the view was a little hazy, it was great to look over Kyoto at sunset. This cycling tour helped me to really appreciate Kyoto. On the first day, racing from highlight to highlight, I felt no connection whatsoever with this famous city. Cycling through it at a much more leisurely pace, I got a very good impression of the town’s lay-out and feel- I definitely want to go back to Kyoto when it’s warmer. Another reason to go back there are yatsuhashi, Kyoto’s local delicacy. These warm black-sesame sweets were too good to be true, especially after a day of cycling through the cold.

And then, finally, Nara. As I wrote a couple of weeks ago, I had been to Kamakura already to visit its famous Buddha statue. Now, standing in Todai-ji, gazing up at Nara’s slightly bigger and slightly more famous Buddha, I couldn’t help but liking Kamakura’s Buddha better. I think it’s more impressive, as it is sitting in the open air and you can walk around it more easily. Nevertheless it was great to be in Nara and view so many temples. My favourite has to be Nigatsu-do, as it is beautifully situated, has a great view and as there are less tourists than at other temples. Although Horyu-ji also deserves a mention, as it is incredible to see wooden buildings that actually date from the 7th century and are still intact.

All in all, our trip to the Kansai region was, of course, way too short- but this is a good sign. I had a great time and am definitely going to visit Kyoto again before I leave Japan. In the meantime, I will enjoy the photos and share anecdotes with my colleagues: they’re often amazed to hear that, being in Japan for just over two months, I have travelled quite a bit already. It’s a good start as it shows I’m interested in Japan, its history and its culture. Traveling as a networking tool… Who would’ve thought?

V. Choir

Time flies when you’re having fun. As I am writing this, February is half past. I can’t believe that the last two months of studying Japanese are drawing to a close, and that in two weeks, I will begin my internship with Hitachi. Although I am sad to leave the Ajia Kaikan (or more precisely, its terrific location in central Tokyo), I am looking forward to having my own small appartment in the Hitachi dormitory and starting “normal life” as someone who works in Tokyo. As I wrote a couple of weeks ago, I am well and truly settling into the Tokyo lifestyle, discovering where to shop, what to eat and, most importantly, how to make friends. So far, most social activities have been limited to trips and evenings out with other JPP students or other international friends. Apart from the Japanese language teachers and the JNI staff I had hardly met -let alone talked to- Tokyoites in a social setting. Until last Sunday, that is, when I went to do what I always do after moving to a new place: join a choir.

The Tokyo International Singers are a large choir consisting of approximately 80 members. About half of them are Japanese, whilst the other half hails from all possible countries of the world. Musically, TIS are also an interesting group, as they aim to perform large-scale pieces on a high amateur level. Last semester they performed Brahms’ Ein Deutsches Requiem (which, coincidentally, I have been singing simultaneously in Leiden). Now, rehearsals have started for Rossini’s Petite Messe Solennelle. The rehearsals are structured in an interesting way: each Saturday, Sunday and Monday members of the choir can attend rehearsals at the National Olympic Memorial Youth Centre at Yoyogi Park. Attendance is required at least once a week, but members can pick the day which suits them best. This arrangement struck me as strange. Usually, even choirs of this size rehearse once a week on a fixed day and time. But in fact, it’s a very sensible way of organizing rehearsals, since many of the choir’s members are hard-working Tokyoites or English-language teachers who have to work at night or during weekends. This goes to show that even when it comes to organizing Western-style activities, there is a Japanese solution that may seem rather farfetched at first, but is actually very efficient.

Other main events in the past week included the JPP site visits to Taisei Construction and the large drainage pipe near Honancho. I very much enjoyed visiting Taisei’s beautiful office overlooking Mt Fuji, and I was amazed at the ingenious solutions the company has come up with to improve the working conditions of its staff. This is what I really love about the Japanese: their ability to look at things differently, to continually improve upon existing ideas, their drive for perfection. The drainage pipe I found less subtle, but equally impressive. As both my father and brother are engineers (TU Delft, of course), I’ve seen my fair share of civil engineering landmarks. Yet to be standing in a tunnel this long and wide, realising that in summer it will fill up with water, was pretty cool.

Finally, I made another daytrip in anticipation of the upcoming trip to the Kansai region. Together with another JPP student and a friend I went to Kamakura. As I love to go hiking and the weather was great, we put on our walking boots and planned a route past several temples, following a hiking trail through the hills (mountains? or is that a Dutch perspective?) up to the giant bronze Buddha. The temples were spread apart further than in Nikko and were more sober in their design. There were also fewer tourists, which definitely gave Kamakura a more relaxed feel than Nikko. Except at the Buddha statue: coming down from the idyllic hiking trail, we were slightly disappointed to see soo many souvenir shops and large groups of people wanting to have their picture taken with the Daibutsu. Yet the statue itself is fascinating, not in the least because it has withstood 750 years of war, earthquakes and fire. I’m very curious to see its rival, the Nara Buddha- now I can compare…