XVII. Quake

It is almost surprising how easy it is to get back into Tokyo life after a week of sleeping on tatami and eating wafu food. Big city life can be addictive, and sometimes it takes travelling through a countryside devoid of functioning ATMs or subways to fully appreciate its comforts. I was just getting back into the work-eat-sleep-study routine when early Thursday morning, a fairly large earthquake hit. It had a force of 6.8 on the Richter scale, and although the epicentre was off the coast of Ibaraki-ken, this was the strongest I’ve experienced so far. Although it was quite scary at the time, being woken up by my shaking bed, I must say that I usually don’t worry about the possibility of an earthquake. Of course, seeing the devastating results of the recent quake in China has made me very aware of how serious a matter it is. Yet, living in modern and comfortable Tokyo I do as the Japanese do: I am aware of safety precautions, but I go about my day-to-day business, not worrying too much about a possible quake. Of course, the earthquake in China has been big news with Hitachi as well, as the company has many factories and offices in China as well as Chinese employees working in Japan. Luckily, my Chinese colleagues have not lost any friends or family members in the quake, but they are understandably worried. Hitachi has pledged financial aid to the stricken area (as it has also done in the case of Myanmar). It makes me proud to be a (distant) member of the Hitachi family...

Other than that, the week after Golden Week has been fairly quiet. Walking through Marunouchi on the 7th, I did see several pro-Tibet protesters, who had turned up in response to the Chinese president’s visit to Tokyo. Apart from the Tibetan flags and banners, the demonstrators, standing in central Marunouchi, looked surprisingly like ordinary salarymen, dressed in suits and greying around the temples. Apart from that, the only big thing this week for me was the Tokyo International Singers concert on the 10th. It was great; the choir sounded a good deal better than before Golden Week, and the concert hall was quite full. Biggest and best surprise for me was to see the seven smiling faces in the front row, all belonging to fellow JPP students. The choir will give another concert in July, singing lighter repertoire such as songs from musicals and popular Japanese songs. Invitations will follow!

X. Spring

Spring in Tokyo is quite a spectacle. This week, all the cherry trees in the city decided to bloom simultaneously, turning the parks and boulevards of the city into bright swatches of pink. On Wednesday I went cherry-blossom viewing with a couple of JPP classmates. During our lunch break we went to Hibiya Park, which has immediately become one of my favourite spots. This verdant pocket of tranquillity right in the middle of busy Marunouchi is an example of what I love about Tokyo. It has got an idyllic pond and a beautifully landscaped garden- surrounded by some of Tokyo’s tallest high-rise buildings. I love this contrast. Later in the afternoon, we went to the Ichigaya area where we walked along a boulevard lined with cherry trees. Salarymen were taking pictures of the blossom with their cell phones and students sat on blue plastic sheets for an early hanami. As the sun set, the slanting evening light rendered the blossoms almost transparent and made them look even more delicate. As I strolled down the boulevard, taking lots of pictures and gazing out over the river, I could completely understand the Japanese fascination with this fragile and transient beauty. It made me think of Lucebert’s poem ‘de zeer oude zingt’(the very old one sings), famous for its much-quoted line ‘alles van waarde is weerloos.’ (all that is valuable is defenseless)

On a more mundane level, this week at Hitachi has been busy but interesting. The research assignment I got from one of my bosses turned out to be more difficult and time-consuming than I had expected. I love a challenge, but in the end I wasn’t completely satisfied with my piece; basing research on online sources only is something I’m still very sceptical about. However, my boss seemed content with the end result and announced with a smile that more research work was to come. But for the time being I focused on assisting with the preparation for the HISTEP orientation day, cutting and folding nametags. On this orientation day the Japanese teachers that will be going to the US and Europe as part of the HISTEP exchange programme were briefed about their stay abroad. The first part of the day consisted of discussing practicalities concerning travel and the exchange programme’s schedule. It was relatively easy to follow and amusing at times, as every little detail was addressed and often discussed in great length. The teachers worried about things like fitting everyone’s luggage in a European taxi (a problem that we Westerners would just solve on the spot) or whether there would be a blackboard in the classroom (I assured them that yes, usually, European classrooms provide for adequate teaching material). Although this Japanese trait of meticulously planning everything beforehand often seems funny and sometimes stifling, it must be said that when Japanese plan something or create a schedule, there are very few mishaps or delays. Still, I think they go too far sometimes in their desire to plan and control everything beforehand, focusing more on the dangers and difficulties of such a trip than anticipating the pleasure it will give.

A similar principle applies to business meetings. I am, for example, allowed to sit in on the team’s weekly meetings on Friday mornings (to my surprise, I can understand a reasonable part of what is being said). What strikes me about these meetings is that we spend a lot of time going over what has been discussed last week, checking off whether everything is still going according to plan (it always is) and only discuss a handful of new additions to the unit’s planning, which, of course, have been discussed beforehand in one of the countless uchiawase (preliminary meetings). Coming from a country where holding meetings and reaching consensus are essential elements of the decision-making process, I understand why regularly confirming we’re still on the same page can be key to the team’s success, but sometimes I wonder whether all those meetings are really helping us improve our performance. Then again, if precision and perfection are what you’re going for, then the Japanese approach is definitely the best.

Luckily, it’s not just ‘all work and no play’ in the office. On Monday the China Business Department took me out for lunch in a traditional Japanese restaurant. It was great! They are a very lively group and asked me lots of questions. And although I can hold my own in casual conversation, I was glad they had a lot of patience, rephrasing or clarifying their questions in Japanese instead of switching to English, as some people do. It was great to get to know them better and I’m truly in awe of the Chinese in the team, whose Japanese is virtually accent-free. Apart from the Chinese team, we (my female colleagues and I) regularly have lunch with women from other departments and today, we had lunch with several men from our team as well. At the moment I am really looking forward to next week, as I will attend the 入社式 (welcome ceremony for new employees) next Tuesday. I’m curious to see what kind of people from my generation start working for Hitachi and how they are welcomed. I’m sure it will be another memorable ‘only in Japan’ experience and I will definitely write about it in my next report.

IX. Museum

Living, working and studying in Tokyo is a typical case of “work hard, play hard.” Work hard: although my working hours are more than decent and the work itself is very interesting, I am genuinely tired each night. At Hitachi, I have been working on my Corporate Social Responsibility research assignment, drawing up a framework and research questions. I’m very enthusiastic about this research project and don’t mind a little 残業 to make a deadline. Apart from this research, I sometimes get additional tasks such as translating or doing some research for projects that the team’s members are working on. The newspaper cuttings and magazines that are read by my colleagues are also passed onto me. I try to read most articles and grasp at least the essence of what is written, but I find my lack of kanji-knowledge renders me virtually illiterate. Especially since when someone reads parts of the article out loud to me, I can understand what is being said. This can be frustrating at times, although I try to give it a positive spin, trying to memorize new kanji as I encounter them in e-mails and the like. When it comes to using the Japanese-language version of Windows I can generally circumvent the problem as I have enough experience to know where I can find commands, even though I can’t read the kanji.

Play hard: whenever I have an afternoon to spare, I try to go and explore a new part of Tokyo. Last week on Wednesday I met up with some other JPP students for a drink at one of our favourite cafes in the Shin-Marunouchi building. An essential part of the Tokyo experience: drinking coffee & tea on the 7th floor terrace with CoolJazz floating out of the speakers and a view of the Marunouchi skyline. That day we also explored Ueno, strolling around the Tokyo University campus and having dinner at a dodgy izakaya crammed with blue-collar workers. This Wednesday was memorable as well. Although I must admit that I don’t know a lot about video games and had expected to hear a bit more about the company during our site visit to Sony ComputerEntertainment, it was nice to see how advanced the latest game computers are. I loved the idea of linking PS3’s worldwide to create a supercomputer capable of the most intricate calculations. It rather reminded me of SETI, a project that uses linked-up PC’s in order to scan the universe for signs of extraterrestrial life forms. It sounds like something out of a science fiction novel, but it is, in fact, a serious research project by the University of California, Berkeley.

Inspired by futuristic ideas, we spent the rest of the afternoon at the Mori Art Museum in Roppongi. It was terrific! We had an amazing view over Tokyo and saw some great pieces of art. The visit reminded me of how much I love modern/contemporary art and so I decided to spend part of my free (but rainy) Thursday at the Hara Museum of Contemporary Art, which was equally impressive. This is one of the things I love about living in a metropolis like Tokyo: there is such a large volume and variety of museums to choose from and you can pretty much go and visit one whenever you feel like it as some stay open until late. It is nice to get out of the city once in a while, like I did last weekend when I went for a hike at Mount Mitake, but museums and cultural life in general keep pulling me back to the city. There are more cultural things I still want to experience, such as a tea ceremony or a Kabuki play, so I’ve started to compile a list- I don’t want to miss a thing.

VII. Ltd.

After my first week at Hitachi, I can say that it’s great to work in a genuine Japanese company, where overtime is the rule and it’s udon for lunch. I feel very welcome. So far, the work seems interesting and my colleagues are really nice- although I must say it has been quite overwhelming to go from being on a holiday to suddenly having to go to work every day. It is nice, though, to be working again and engaging in slightly more intellectual activities after the past 6 months of intensive language study.

On my first day I was introduced to over 30 people working on my floor, which was quite daunting. Luckily, my self-introductions went well and after chatting for a bit, most people thought me very “joozu.” I am now in possession of a thick pile of meishi, but I must admit I forgot which names go with which faces. I do know everyone from my team, though, as each of them took some time to introduce me to their specific area of expertise. They are seven in all, but one lady is currently working in Brussels. That leaves two bucho’s (managers), one of whom is my direct superior, two male colleagues and two female colleagues. We work in an open-space office in rows of three desks, grouped together according to division. There are big windows on one side and there’s an open space with round tables, like we saw at Taisei. This is where we have our division meetings. Our office is on the 24th floor, which means the view is simply amazing, especially at sunset. If I didn’t have to work, I would just sit there all day with a cup of tea and a good book. However, I do have to work. Luckily, my working conditions are quite comfortable. I’ve got a big desk, a chair with adjustable armrests, my own cabinet and, if I crane my neck a little, a great view of Marunouchi’s skyscrapers. Almost everyone, including myself, works on small Hitachi laptops with tiny screens. Also, instead of fixed desk phones, we have mobile phones sitting in a docking station on our desk.

Hitachi is a rather traditional company, and it shows. At lunch time, for example, I go for lunch with my female colleagues, as the men go their own way. Also, although there are quite a lot of women working on our floor, all managers I have been introduced to are men. As I get to know my female colleagues better, I hope to be able to ask them what they think about this- and how they see their own career prospects. For now, I am still absorbing the experience of working at a Japanese company. There are so many things that would never work in a Dutch working environment, induce ridicule even, but are perfectly normal in a Japanese setting. For example the start and end of each working day are punctuated by Big Ben chimes, as well as the lunch break. Not to mention the strains of violin music that pour out of the loudspeakers at three in the afternoon, when it’s… exercise time! (everyone ignores the soothing female voice, instructing us to stretch our muscles and rotate our head)

Each morning at 8.50 sharp, our working day begins. I try to be at my desk before the bell, and so far I’ve succeeded. The commute to work is hell, but that’s part of the salaryman-experience (or so I keep telling myself). Getting from my station to Ichikawa station is usually ok. But then, waiting the train pull in at Ichikawa station, its windows steamed up and faces squashed against the door, I never believe I’ll make it to work –let alone on time. Yet, although maybe three people get off, I always manage to get on the train, along with at least ten other Japanese who were waiting with me. I am now learning where and how to stand, so that although I will inevitably be pushed about, at least my ribcage will remain intact. On moments like this, I love my mp3 player and the illusion of private space it creates. Without it, I don’t know how I would get through this daily ordeal.

Luckily the work itself more than compensates for this minor inconvenience. From day one, I have been taken good care of. One of the bucho’s has really gone out of his way to help me get as much out of my time with Hitachi as I can. Of course I will participate in the division’s daily work, but as the first few months there isn’t much to do for me, he has come up with the idea of letting me do some research on Corporate Social Responsibility, the way Hitachi is implementing it and how CSR relates to the development work of NGO’s and organizations like the EU and the UN. It really is great to be given this opportunity to learn more about something that really interests me. Finally, as cherries on the proverbial cake, I will be working with the brand division and the advertisement department for one week each. All in all things look more than promising. To quote a famous musical and childhood-favourite: I think I’m gonna like it here!